Rewriting Berluti’s ready-to-wear style in a more relaxed and casual way, without abandoning its bootmaker universe of leathers, patinas and colours – this is the guiding idea behind the Spring-Summer 2022 collection, which features multiple silhouettes that are both chic and modern.
The Scritto motif, which has been fully enlarged, perfectly exemplifies this reinterpretation of the codes of the maison. Originally hand calligraphed on shoes and leather goods, it now takes a more exaggerated turn, recreated with silk inserts and embroidery stitches on nubuck jackets. It is also woven, knitted or printed, sometimes on windcheaters, jumpers, shirts or shorts. The motif becomes completely abstract and, at the same time, extends perfectly from the front to the back, along the collar or sleeves, thanks to millimeter-precise positioning and fitting techniques. It also features as an all-over design, achieved with a new heat-sealed leather padding process, when it is not embroidered on the chest pocket of an over jacket or a polo shirt.
In this way, the new Berluti collection combines tradition and innovation, craftmanship and creativity, presenting the essentials of the men’s wardrobe with a resolutely modern touch. Jackets have been stripped of their interfacing. The silhouette is supple and fluid, and the materials are comfortable and lightweight. “Shirt-jackets” with large patch pockets are paired with slightly baggy trousers to reinvent the suit. Trekking-style jackets in shearling, drawstring waist trousers, T-shirts slipped under “shirt-jackets” and drawstring parkas in laminated leather reiterate the laidback tone of this offering which also catches the eye with its intense colours – sienna, eggplant or petrol, and softer grey and pastel shades that perfectly complement each other and accentuate the leather details and finishes.
The accessory lines have also reinterpreted the emblematic models of the house. In leather goods, Un jour and Toujours bags are available in patinas with a tie-and-dye effect, in green, blue and camel colours, respectively named Beetle Green, Sapphire Blue and Duna. The SIGNATURE pattern canvas is transposed onto a herringbone weave, enhanced by Venezia leather finishes at the base, corners and tabs of different bags. The emblematic leather of the maison has been reinvented for a more casual and supple look and feel, tanned and grainy, in four models – Late Hour briefcase, Late Hour shopper, Late Hour backpack and Late Hour pouch – which make up the Jour Softy line. Lastly, the Scritto motif is rewritten on jacquard canvas to echo the ready-to-wear line.
As for shoes, the Alessandro and Andy styles are redesigned with draped effects and patinas on the instep. The uppers of various models, both formal and casual, are decorated with stitching that is traditionally used for shoemaking and assembling soles. The Playtime and Fast Track sneakers also come in different leathers. A new line of ultra-comfortable shoes in very supple leather, like a second skin, makes its debut under the name Eden. Finally, the range of sandals has expanded, playing out multiple straps with different, very subtle patinas, reflecting the DNA of the maison.