"In this collection Iwanted to look at certain identities," says Mark Weston, Creative Director of dunhill. "These are clothing archetypes, but also identities of Britishness,of masculinity,of uniforms, aswell as those of dunhill past and the new era archetypes that we have sought ta establish here. It's- really about how characterand clothing work together, the idiosyncratic combinations of personal style and identity in Britain and dunhill,as- well as 0- redefinition of them farthe house."
A collision ofstyle and identity, utility and exh-avagance featuresin the Spring Summer 2022 collection.Archetypal characters: and clothing, crass-fertilised and collaged,show a sense of ease with elegantimperfection, all realised in
precious-made-practical fabrics-.
From deco dandies to hi-vis handy men,encompassing traditional male archetypesin conventional uniforms to the purposely provocativeeffeminacy of '80s casuals along the woy, British masculine identitiesore playfully reworked,as are elements of dunhill history, past andpresent.Itultimately leads ta a reverence far the brand, h-eat-ed in arr irreverent, distinctly British way.
A sense of the multifunctional,the found object and dames-ticity is: continued and evolved from lost season,combined with a feeling of almost aris:tacratic, slovenly elegance. Featured once more is- the 'Compendium Coat\ omulti-functional garment that can be worn in various ways. The coat can be zippedaway ta become ajacket,its lining detached to become a separate garment in its own right. All is achieved in luxurious yet pra-dicalmaterials, utility, function and elegance finding form inone everlasting, yet always changing item.A collage of silk faille (a new era dunhill replacementfar nylon) in warning colours provides a deluxe take on the hi-visjacket. The Compendium h-ench features in addition this season,sharing omixand match mentality with the coat. Made from cotton ventile, its fabricationis the same as flight suits made for the British armed farces.Another iteration appears in super-lightnylon, akey fabric in the collection,also finding form in pleatfront,split hem trousers - a new era signature of the house.
Homey blanket knits in pastel colours become wrap cardigans used for layering. That new era dunhill staple, the wrap tailoredjacket,adds to the sinuous- feel of tailoring in the collection.The undone necktie in crushed satins: becomes a leitmotif, representing a sense oflouche elegance. Grosgrain ribbon strapped derby shoesalsohove a sense of utility and extravagance,a flourish of easy imperfection made of precious- fabrics.
The abstractwork of photographic artist EllenCarey features as a prinr collabaration Hris season.Most frequently appearingon double bonded duchesse satin, thismast haure couture of fabrics takesthe place of a technical shell in canoe tops,jackets- and hats. Carey'sprints also feature on leather goads,such as the new era Lock bag, which findsa variety of forms this season. AsMark Weston says of th-e Carey prints: "It's about colour, serendipity and process in her work - there is an idea of chance and elegance in the prints.
Process and its possibilities through play is: an an-goingfascin0-tion far me, togetherwiththe importance of trusting instinct and embracingthe accidenrals, thots-ense of immediocy."