Moschino’s Fall 2023 Donna collection fuses Salvador Dalí-esque surrealism and aristo-punk flair to deliver a new twist on the house’s iconic aesthetic. From oversized spikes to allover bijoux to morphing hemlines: This season is all about drama with distortion.
Moschino signatures–including biker jackets, classic tailleurs, nameplate chains and striking gold and pearl buttons–are melted and modified, much in the manner Dalí imagined drooping clocks and bodies. For example: Peace sign baubles are blurred. Pocket covers on moto jackets add visual drip. Houndstooth is liquefied. Even boot buckles–golden and glinting–are warped fantastically.
These (literally) twisted codes are creative director Jeremy Scott’s way of toying with convention and setting the stage for what follows: An insouciant punk spirit, dripping with decadence. As the collection progresses, this revolutionary verve surfaces, with spikes, for example, set along shoulder seams and skirt hems. A boxed-and-cropped blazer features the studs on its pronounced lapel, while a veritable jewel box is flung open across a satin evening bolero, down the cascade of a tulle ballgown or onto a sparkling tasseled 1920’s-era dress. It’s a surrealism-tinged rebellion–and one that’s doused with a spritz of nonconforming royalty.