A capital stroll through the streets of Paris, from Saint-Germain-des-Prés to the Palais-Royal garden, from the elegant arcades of Rue de Rivoli to the banks of the Seine – that is the call of the Autumn/Winter 2022 Collection from Berluti, a Parisian house with Italian roots.
There is a looser, more fluid and relaxed feel to Berluti’s iconic ready-to-wear, leather goods and footwear for Autumn/Winter 2022, yet the Maison’s legacy of bootmaking still shines through. Its artistry with fine leathers, patinas and colours was the guiding principle behind this collection of contemporary silhouettes imbued with classic elegance. Throughout its succession of fabrics and accessories, the patterns, colours, and textures serve to showcase a wardrobe that marries strong lines and formally cut tailoring with functional dimensions.
For city wear, the collection teams short, straight bomber jackets in patinated leather with suits and tailored pants. Shades of Black, Coffee Fudge and Cognac abound in these pieces, and all the Berluti hallmarks are also there – from the patinated finish and subtle use of the Scritto pattern under the pocket flaps, to the zipper pulls and tabs brought across from the iconic Un Jour bag. The leather penny bar from the Andy loafer has also been hijacked as an emblem on the back of knitwear. Scritto is a perfect example of how the Maison’s signatures are reinterpreted. Initially applied to shoes and leather goods, the pattern is now worked in jacquard on the sleeve of a parka, and appears in woven or knitted variations on windcheaters, sweaters, and shirts.
Berluti’s range of leather goods has added the iconic Un Jour and Toujours bags in graduated smoky patinas christened Steel Blue and Elephant Grey. Venezia, the Maison’s emblematic leather, now comes in a suppler, tumbled version with a more casual feel that’s used on four products – the F088 briefcase, the Overnight weekend bag, the Journalier shoulder pouch bag and the cross-body Rider – which together make up the Jour Softy line, all in a new Soft Brown patina. In tandem, the go-anywhere E'Mio briefcase is also evolving, with a new twist on its signature lock-like clasp; now those rounder contours close with a padlock. Its design is more geared to action, with a removable shoulder strap that fastens to the back so the bag can be carried by the handles or over the shoulder. Craftmanship is under the spotlight again in Drapé, which showcases all the Maison’s savoir-faire as a bootmaker. Drapé is a play of delicate curves inspired by the fall of draped fabrics in classical sculpture, painting, and drawing throughout the history of art. It gives full expression to the material, with lightly rounded Venezia leather folded over and sewn in layers, creating volume reminiscent of couture draping. This new technique is applied to the iconic Alessandro, a buckled Oxford shoe, a boot in the Démesure line, and on leather goods. On the bags Un Jour Mini, Toujours Neo, Un Jour Neo and Un Jour Nino, the colour gets darker around the folds of the leather, just as it does on the shoe.
The silhouette gets a boost of vitality from timeless casual staples. Laidback baseball-style jackets in leather, drawstring pants, a shearling hooded jacket, and cashmere jersey sweatshirts worn under a quilted leather parka with hand-applied protective technical treatment – these all add to the relaxed mood. Colours are eye-catching, ranging from intense (burnt sienna, russet, camel) to softer hues like smoky grey and beige, underscoring the intricate detail of an embroidered 1895 Berluti Paris logo or the Maison’s name.
Playoff is a new, ultra-comfortable sneaker being introduced in supple Venezia leather. It comes in a high-top and low-top version, with subtle patinas like Nero Grigio, Honey, Steel Blue Red and Purple Blue increasing its sporty feel while reflecting Berluti’s DNA. The Playoff is also recognizable by the strip of contrast leather inserted in its sole. Iconic models Playtime and Fast Track are reworked in different leathers and embellished with original colours.
Fusing the formal and the informal, Berluti reinvents winter basics. First with its new Oxford shoe, the Alto. Distinctive for a sole that’s entirely sheathed in Venezia leather, this design extends the Scritto pattern from the quarter right down to the sole in its Nero Grigio version. Then there is the Aspen, for adventurers – a real mountain boot with Vibram® rubber sole grip technology. Being adventurous doesn’t detract from the Maison’s concern with detailing, like the refined combination of different materials, the Maison logo embossed on Cacao Intenso Venezia leather, and the hooks and eyes for lacing. Lastly, Berluti is reissuing its emblematic Ultima. Both the Oxford shoe and the boot now have soles that combine leather with rubber, and both feature nubuck inserts on their upper.
Berluti's imaginative colour chart proudly showcases Venezia leather in bright and vibrant shades. This leather is a true signature of the Maison, lending the collection softness and durability. Each additional patina is more stunning than the last, like the new shades Charcoal Brown – an artful blend of grey, brown and black – Steel Blue, Elephant Grey and Saint Emilion.
Berluti’s Autumn/Winter 2022 collection is the epitome of fluidity, function, and craftsmanship, bringing a resolutely modern feel to the Maison’s timeless designs.
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