Slowness and speed, confidence and ease. A fast ride on the car, at sunset. Enjoying sunrise walking quietly along the river Tiber. Brioni keeps evolving its sartorial code while keeping true to the roots. Roman roots: an attitude towards dressing that’s nonchalant, probably a bit absent minded, and masculinely so.
The refinement of the materials and the precision of the cuts, in fact, does not translate into a precious attitude. The Brioni men - a plurality of personalities, united under the insignia of gentleness and self-awareness - wear a faultless blazer over pajamas, belt themselves in a woven leather trench or hit the night in a mauve moirè silk tuxedo, yet they forget about clothes as soon as they are on.
The collection is thought as an expansive wardrobe, made of finely tailored, painstakingly detailed pieces meant to be layered and combined however one prefers, touching formality with a hint of informality, giving informality the luster of formality.
Every moment of a men’s life is covered, from business attire to leisure to the weekend. Shapes are precise, with Brioni’s defining softness and suppleness giving each item unmistakable character. Unlined blazers made in the lightest wools, double faced wools and shirting cottons capture the all pervading sense of ease, while leather trenches, washed leather field jackets and blazers have swagger and presence. Technical silk gives sportier pieces a crispy touch; garment-dyed suits exude a painterly, lived-in aura.
Cravatteria motifs land on jacquard jackets, landscapes prints on shirts and night sky depictions in linings. After dark, the goings get shiny, as moiré and jacquard silk takes the lead. Materials are luxurious and tactile: cashmere/silk, wool, silk, ostrich leather.
The color palette is an amalgamation of sunrise warm hues of burn browns, beiges and neutrals and sunset notes of ochre, lilac, dark green, midnight blue and black. Sandals, slender loafers, linen and snakeskin espadrilles complete the picture.