LOEWE presents the Spring Summer 2021 men’s collection as a show-in- a-box: a classic archive box, with internal dividers. The outside and canvas texture are the same as the LOEWE publications. The dividers hold and separate the contents, which translate the entire creative process into a sensorial experience, from the initial inspirations to the show setting.
The idea of the show-in-a-box, which has been creatively directed by Jonathan Anderson and M/M (Paris), is a response to the singular times in which we are living, and essentially to the impossibility of holding a real fashion show. Drawing inspiration from experiments such as Marcel Duchamp’s Museum in a Box, the show itself is fitted in a box, becoming portable without losing its singular status of something happening in real time and involving spectators in a unique form of interaction. The layered content within this time capsule invites the viewer to be actively engaged. Tactility, which has been so severely erased by the impossibility of meeting if not through a screen, is particularly important.
The box opens with a letter from Jonathan Anderson, followed by an inspiration booklet. The key looks and bags are offered in boxed format for a 360 degree view, including bird’s eye, while the full lookbooks of both men’s collection and women’s precollection are printed in paper blocks. Shoes are photographed as postcards; sunglasses are printed on perforated paper for pop up and try on. Next come the colour and fabric cards, with real swatches for reference, while a texture card reproduces in embossing the woven leather of a signature top. The pattern of one of the key pieces comes next, allowing recreation of the circle top at home. The same pattern can be downloaded online. Cut out silhouettes of members of the team ensue. A portable cardboard record player allows reproduction of the soundtrack, registered at the LOEWE Getafe Factory with voiceover by Dr James Fox. The record needs to be manually spun to function. A pop-up of the imaginary set for the show follows. The invitation with credits closes the content.
The show-in-a-box is meant as a tangible action which occupies a moment in space and time. As such it translates into another format the peculiar language of the fashion show.
The Men’s Spring Summer 2021 Collection
The single item, magnified in its self standing power, on the mannequin.
The LOEWE Spring Summer 2021 collection deploys a story of curves, swings and loops that skew the hard edge. What goes around comes in rounds.
Creative director Jonathan Anderson keeps the flux smooth and the touch soft. Volumes slide, glide, bounce as cuts and textures are juxtaposed and mixed to get the curve around. Abstraction swoops with utilitarianism, matte with shiny, ribbed with raffia. Jolliness is poised in flow.
Balloon sleeves. Askew buttoning. Side bands festooning past the hem. Straps and drawstrings that dangle. Hoops. Cut-outs. Knitwear peeling in curvaceous lines. Circular tops. Extremized weaving that blows up and maximizes craft. Garments that peel, move and reveal another angle, or another curve. Even the shibori blotch follows a curvilinear pattern.
Slip-on loafers and flow runners, and then drawstring backpacks, Basket totes and the multifaceted Puzzle flank the flowing movement.
Playfulness is embedded in each item, to be further played up.
In time for the men’s and precollection Spring Summer 2021 presentations, LOEWE unveils the new website, offering an enriched and engaging browsing experience with full screen imagery, videos and interactive elements.
Look 1 Double faced coat in wool/cashmere. Balloon backpack in grained calfskin and calfskin.
Two layer coat in wool and gaberdine.
Look 3 Three layer circular top in wool/cashmere.
Look 4 Three layer circular top in wool/cashmere. Trousers in wool with drawstring legs. Balloon backpack in napa calfskin and calfskin.
Look 5 Straight coat in hand waxed calfskin. Trousers in wool with drawstring legs. Rope tote in textile.
Look 6 Straight coat in dry wool drill.
Look 7 Sleeveless top in hand-woven calf leather. Trousers in crossed, hand-stitched wool panels. Craft tote in calfskin.
Look 8 Cape in Japanese shibori cotton gauze. Trousers in wool with drawstring legs.
Look 9 Trench coat with cape sleeves in cotton gabardine.
Look 10 Top and trousers with hoop details in ribbed cotton/viscose.
Look 11 Hooded parka in cashmere suede. Trousers in wool with drawstring legs. Large Puzzle Knot in napa calfskin.
Look 12 Cape in Japanese shibori cotton gauze. Shirt in cotton.
Look 13 Elongated top and trousers in hand-stitched distressed cotton jersey. Large Puzzle Knot in napa calfskin.
Look 14 High neck top in velvet rib knit and cotton poplin. Trousers in wool with drawstrings legs.
Boat neck top in wool/polyester with a jacquard painting by Paul Cadmus.
Look 16 Crew neck round top and trousers in satin with drawstring. Balloon backpack in napa calfskin and calfskin.
Look 17 Top and trousers with hoop details in ribbed cotton/viscose.
Look 18 Elongated top in distressed wool cable knit. Balloon trousers in overdyed viscose satin.
Look 19 Elongated top in Japanese shibori cotton gauze. Trousers in wool with drawstring legs.
Look 20 Elongated hi-neck military shirt in overdyed cotton organdy. Trousers in overdyed cotton polyester plissè. Large Puzzle Knot in napa calfskin.
Look 21 Buttoned cape in double layer bonded waterproof cotton. Trousers in cotton drill.
Look 22 Trompe l’oeil crew neck jumper in viscose and moulinè wool. Trousers in wool/mohair with side flaps.
Look 23 Three layer circular cape in silk twill, silk crepe and viscose satin. Balloon backpack in napa calfskin and calfskin.
Look 24 Calfskin jacket with funnel neck that converts into a bag.
Look 25 Loose crew neck top in viscose knit with raffia sleeves.
Look 26 Asymmetrical buckle trench coat in cotton drill. Balloon backpack in grained calfskin and calfskin.
Look 27 Sleeveless top in hand-woven calf leather. Trousers in wool with drawstring legs.
Look 28 Parachute trench in cotton.